Get ready to rethink fashion as you know it. In a world obsessed with Instagram-worthy moments, Belgian designer Julie Kegels dares to slow us down with her Fall 2026 collection, 'Face Value.' Instead of flashy spectacle, Kegels invites us to ponder a deeper question: how do we curate our image in an era of constant visibility? And this is the part most people miss: it's not just about the clothes, but the conversation they spark.
Set to the haunting melody of discordant violins, models glided down the runway with intentional slowness, forcing us to focus on the intricate details of each garment. This deliberate pacing felt almost revolutionary in a time where fashion shows often prioritize viral clips over thoughtful design.
Drawing inspiration from Andy Warhol's concept of 'aura' and the ethereal, blurred portraits of Korean artist Kyungwoo Chun (himself influenced by philosopher Martin Heidegger), Kegels explores the tension between shadow and authenticity. Is the image we project truly a reflection of our inner selves, or merely a carefully constructed facade?
But here's where it gets controversial: Kegels doesn't offer easy answers. Her collection is both cerebral and surprisingly wearable. Capes cascade from shoulders, anchoring discreetly at the ankles, creating a ghostly, billowing silhouette. Jackets transform into dresses, pajama tops inflate into gowns, and a simple white button-down becomes a dramatic cape.
Kegels achieved these unique shapes through a fascinating process. She photographed garments in her Antwerp studio, manipulating lighting to create shadows, then used these distorted patterns as blueprints for new forms. Elsewhere, she employs what she calls 'forced tailoring,' structuring garments to physically assert the wearer's presence. Sleeves are cut to thrust arms forward with military precision, while shrunken pullovers feature slits at the shoulders, revealing pops of color like miniature wings.
'The aura is a shield,' Kegels explained backstage, 'but it's an imperfect one. We all curate an appearance, but is it ever truly authentic?' This tension between control and vulnerability is embodied in the collection's exposed seams and unfinished edges, a deliberate contrast that echoes the jagged, almost cartoonish hats reminiscent of the beloved character Calimero. This unexpected whimsy, inspired by the hats' accidental resemblance to Calimero's headgear, led to the incorporation of cozy baby blankets as wrap skirts, adding a touch of childlike innocence to the collection.
Just as Warhol observed, our carefully crafted 'aura' can crumble with a single word. Yet, in Kegels' skilled hands, clothing becomes a tool to prolong that illusion, a temporary shield against the scrutiny of the hyper-visible world.
Does fashion truly empower us to control our image, or does it merely highlight the inherent contradictions within us? What do you think?
